For the first time ever I'm attempting to make a "tall" Burda design. Cut a size 80.
I'm amazed how good it fits. But I want it to fit perfectly. So I can use it to alter the "normal" patterns. Not much to ask, right?

( Don't I look like a milkmaid? :-))
The following pictures point out some problems with the pattern and I'd love if someone could help me to resolve them.
1. Gaping front - might be an ironing problem? Did I pull too much? Is it because the facing wasn't reinforced? Bust needs more space?
2. Midriff - hitting my hipbone? Should it be shortened? Doesn't look like pulling.

3. Sleeve - too tight
4. Armscye - should be opened a bit
5. Creases at the waist - due to what? The back pulls down? Needs a swayback alteration?
Again, the same creases at the waist. How to get rid of them? Swayback alteration needed?
6. Length - long or mid knee? Shorter, right?
Would you make this dress in silk? I happen to have a crazy colored silk in my stash... Or is it more appropriate to use a crispier fabric, because of the facings and pleats and overall design?
Help, ideas, suggestions needed! And will be greatly appreciated. :-))
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