Dress Burda muslin

For the first time ever I'm attempting to make a "tall" Burda design. Cut a size 80.

I'm amazed how good it fits. But I want it to fit perfectly. So I can use it to alter the "normal" patterns. Not much to ask, right?

( Don't I look like a milkmaid? :-))

The following pictures point out some problems with the pattern and I'd love if someone could help me to resolve them.

1. Gaping front - might be an ironing problem? Did I pull too much? Is it because the facing wasn't reinforced? Bust needs more space?

2. Midriff - hitting my hipbone? Should it be shortened? Doesn't look like pulling.

 

3. Sleeve - too tight

4. Armscye - should be opened a bit

5. Creases at the waist - due to what? The back pulls down? Needs a swayback alteration?

Again, the same creases at the waist. How to get rid of them? Swayback alteration needed?

 

6. Length - long or mid knee? Shorter, right?

Would you make this dress in silk? I happen to have a crazy colored silk in my stash... Or is it more appropriate to use a crispier fabric, because of the facings and pleats and overall design?

Help, ideas, suggestions needed! And will be greatly appreciated. :-))

Comments

[TanitIsis]

Hi, I followed you here from the Trench Sew Along :)

I am no expert but here's my fitting thoughts: the gaping on the neckline could be just from the bias stretching (from too much handling, lack of stay-stitching?, or just unavoidable). I believe you can take it out by taking out a wedge in the pattern with the wide end at the neckline, if you need to. I think the bodice might be a tad too long causing the little lines at the waist (you seem to have a high waist relative to your torso). It looks lovely, though---I wouldn't've noticed the fit issues if it passed me on the street :). I like the length, but I tend to prefer my skirts ridiculously short or impractically long, so I'm not a good one to ask in that department ;)

[Karin van D.]

I like long dresses myself, but it might become a bit more 'spicy' if you shortened this dress to knee length. I have to say I think the fit is wonderful. Had you not pointed out the fit issues you see, I would have never noticed. And this neckline looks beautiful on you!

[Marija Barun]

super haljina, baš za mene; daš mi kroj, možeš ga nacrtati; objaviti na ovoj stranici i objasniti kako da ga uvečam, pozdrav i pusa